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The Winter Solstice Crochet Cardigan

Updated: May 16



The Winter Solstice Cardigan is an easy crochet cardigan suitable for beginners that know the basic stitches. It would make a wonderful addition to your wardrobe and can easily be dressed up or dressed down. I designed this cardigan using the same stitch as my very popular summer Solar Flare Cardigan. This cardigan works up so beautiful in many different types of yarn, don’t forget to check out the tester cardigans below for some yarnspirations! I have also created a quick picture tutorial of the pattern stitch used for this cardigan, you can find that link below in the pattern.


Don’t forget to follow me on your favourite social media platform (Facebook, Instagram or Pinterest) so that you do not miss out on any of my upcoming free crochet patterns! Save it for Later If you want to make the Siren Shell Crochet Tee don’t forget to save it for later! You can also find the links below for the inexpensive PDF patterns on Etsy and Ravelry: Get the Ad Free, easy to follow, large print, printable PDF pattern on ETSY or RAVELRY. 〜PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE. Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.


Tester Cardigans A very big thank you to all of the testers who have tested the Winter Solstice Cardigan pattern. I am very grateful for all of their hard work, patience and feedback during the testing process. Their cardigans turned out beautifully and I have been sorely tempted to remake this cardigan using their beautiful yarn choices!



  • Sharon Lewis | Yarn: Deramores Aran | Size: Medium

  • Claire Garner | Yarn: Style Craft Special Aran (with wool) | Size: X-Large

  • Laura Craft | Yarn: Super Luxurious (Aran) | Size: Large

  • Stephanie Phillips Nunn | Yarn: Deramores Aran | Size: X Small

  • Takara Smith | Yarn: Paintbox Yarn Simply Aran | Size: Large

  • Alex Bustin Yarn | Yarn: Gygnet (Aran) | Size: Small

  • Sharon Lewis | Yarn: Deramores Aran | Size: Medium

  • Claire Garner | Yarn: Style Craft Special Aran (with wool) | Size: X-Large

Materials

Yarn Weight: Yarn group: Medium / Aran Suggested Yarn: Hobbii Lollipop (01) Hook: 6mm (or hook size needed to achieve gauge) Other materials: Scissors, blunt needle, stitch markers x4 and a measuring tape.


Sizing


The Winter Solstice Cardigan is true to size. Check your bust measurements and then pick the size that will fit you best according to your measurement.

X-Small30″ / 82cm950 meters

Small34″ / 92cm1060 meters

Medium38″ / 102cm1270 meters

Large42″ / 112cm1380 meters

X-Large46″ / 122cm1500 meters

2x-Large50″ / 132cm1650 meters Gauge Meas uring along a herringbone double crochet row: 12st x 8 rows in each 4″ x 4′ (10cm x 10cm). To make a gauge swatch follow the pattern stitch (rows, 1, 2, 3 & 4). Gauge is important for this cardigan.


Abbreviations and Terminology


US Terminology st(s) stitch(es) ch(s) chain(s) sk skip a stitch sl st slip stitch ch chain hbDc herringbone double crochet hbDcBlo herringbone double crochet back loop only tch turning chain rep repeat Herringbone double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch and draw up a loop (3 loops on hook). Pull the first loop through the second loop (2 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through the first loop (2 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through last 2 loops.


Multiples: The pattern stitch uses multiples of 2sts + 1st & 1sts for the foundation chain. To make a custom size then chain in multiples of 2 until the chain is wide enough for the back panel, add 1 more chain. Then chain 1 more for the foundation chain.

Resources

You can watch a video tutorial for the mattress stitch from Heart Hook Home at this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2ihsbNpZto. Sizing Tables & Charts A: Bust / width of the back panel B: Length from hemline to shoulder / collar C: Length of sleeve panel D: Width of sleeve panel (before seaming)


SizeBack Panel WithBack Panel LengthSleeve WidthSleeve LengthXS 16″ / 41cm30″ / 77cm12″ / 30.5cm21″ / 54cmS18″ / 46cm30″ / 77cm13″ / 33cm21″ / 54cmM20″ / 51cm30″ / 77cm14″ / 35.5cm21″ / 54cmL22″ / 56cm32.5″ / 82.5cm15″ / 38cm21″ / 54cmXl24″ / 61cm32.5″ / 82.5cm16″ / 40.5cm21″ / 54cm2XL26″ / 67cm32.5″ / 82.5cm17″ / 43cm21″ / 54cm You can use this table as you make the back panel to check that the width and length is correct. You can also do the same with the sleeve panels. Remember, the sleeves will be rolled upward to make a folded cuff. If you you want to reduce the length of the sleeves do not make as many repeats of rows 5 – 8 as indicated on the pattern. This table indicates: ~ The length and width the sleeve panels should be before seaming. ~ The total length and width the front and back panels together will be before seaming (with the front panels laid flat on top of the back panel).


Pattern Notes

1. The cardigan is crocheted from the bottom up with an easy 4-row-repeat pattern stitch. The first step is to make the back panel. This is crocheted from the bottom hemline upward. 2. The next step is to mark off the neck-opening on each side and then continue crocheting down one-side for the first front panel. Then the second front panel is then also crocheted downward . 3. The two sleeves are crocheted separately. 4. The sleeves are sewn to the front and back panels, the sides of the panels are seamed and then the ribbing is added.


Pattern Stitch Notes

I have created a quick picture tutorial of the pattern stitch, you can find the tutorial here: Herringbone Pattern Stitch Tutorial: Winter Solstice Crochet Cardigan. ~ Instead of a ch3 at the beginning of each row this pattern uses a ch2. This prevents creating a large gap at the beginning and end of each row. ~ The ch2 at the beginning of each row of the back panel, front panels and sleeves always count as a stitch. Mark this with a stitch marker to make sure you do not skip it at the end of each row. ~ The ribbing was not created using a 0.5 – 1 hook size smaller than the main panels. This was because I did not want a ribbing that was tighter than the main panels. You can use a smaller hook size for the ribbing if this is your personal preference.



Trouble shooting

~ The edges will appear uneven as you work. This is normal and it will not be noticeable after the panels have been sewn together. ~ The stitches may appear loose when crocheting rows 2 & 3 (the rows with a skipped stitch). This is normal and the pattern tightens back up once you have completed row 4.

Gauge


Gauge is important for this cardigan. Make sure to check your gauge before beginning. ~ Go up a hook size if you have too many stitches. ~ Go down a hook size if you have too few stitches. ~ Try making your stitch height taller if you have too many rows. ~ Try making your stitch height smaller if you have too few rows.

The Pattern

If you want to make the Winter Solstice Cardigan don’t forget to save it for later! You can also find the links below for the inexpensive PDF patterns on Etsy and Ravelry: Get the Ad Free, easy to follow, large print, printable PDF pattern on RAVELRY or ETSY. 〜PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE. Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.

Back Panel Make x 1

I have created a quick picture tutorial of the pattern stitch, you can find the tutorial here: Herringbone Pattern Stitch Tutorial: Winter Solstice Crochet Cardigan. The turning chain (ch2) always counts as a stitch (hbDc). The last stitch of the row is always made into the 2nd loop of the turning chain. Foundation Chain: Ch 52 (58, 64, 70, 76, 82). R 1: HbDc in 3rd chain from hook. HbDc in every ch to the end of the row, turn. (51, 57, 63, 69, 75, 81 sts).


R2: Ch3 (counts as hbDc and ch1), sk1, *hbDc, ch1, sk1; Rep from * to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 2nd chain of the turning chain, turn. The last stitch of this row is the skipped ch2 from the foundation chain (27, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41dc) (26, 28, 31, 34, 37, 40 ch-spaces). R3: Ch3 (counts as hbDc and ch1), *sk the ch1-space, hbDc into the next stitch, ch1; Rep from * to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 2nd chain of the turning chain, turn (27, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41dc) (26, 28, 31, 34, 37, 40 ch-spaces). R4: Ch2, *hbDc in ch1-space, hbDc in next stitch; Rep from * to last chain space. Make a hbDc into the last chain space and make the last hbDc of the row into the 2nd chain of the turning chain, turn (51, 57, 63, 69, 75, 81 sts). R5: Ch2, hbDcBlo in each stitch to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 3rd chain of the turning chain, turn (51, 57, 63, 69, 75, 81sts). R6: Ch3 (counts as hbDc and ch1), sk1, *hbDc, ch1, sk1; Rep from * to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 2nd chain of the turning chain, turn (27, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41dc) (26, 28, 31, 34, 37, 40 ch-spaces).

R7: Ch3 (counts as hbDc and ch1), *sk the ch1-space, hbDc into the next stitch, ch1; Rep from * to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 2nd chain of the turning chain, turn (27, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41dc) (26, 28, 31, 34, 37, 40 ch-spaces). R8: Ch2, *hbDc in chain space, hbDc in next stitch; Rep from * to last chain space. Make a hbDc into the last chain space and make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 2nd chain of the turning chain. (51, 57, 63, 69, 75, 81sts).. Sizes XS, S & M Repeat rows 5 – 8: 11 times. Do not yarn off. Sizes L, XL& 2XL Repeat rows 5 – 8: 12 times. Do not yarn off.

Front Panels Make x 2

The turning chain (ch2) always counts as a stitch (hbDc). The last stitch of the row is always made into the 2n


d loop of the turning chain. Lay the back panel on a flat surface. From the right side using a stitch marker, mark the 21st (25, 27, 31, 33, 37 sts). Do the same from the left side. There should be 9sts (7, 9, 7, 9, 7 sts) between each stitch marker). Front Panel 1 R1: Ch2, hbDcBlo in each stitch to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 2nd chain of the turning chain, turn (21, 25, 27, 31, 33, 37 sts). R2: Ch3 (counts as hbDc and ch1), sk1, *hbDc, ch1, sk1; Rep from * to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 2nd chain of the turning chain, turn (11, 13, 14, 16, 17, 19 dc) (10, 12, 13, 15, 16, 18 ch-spaces). R3: Ch3 (counts as hbDc and ch1), *sk the ch1-space, hbDc into the next stitch, ch1; Rep from * to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 2nd chain of the turning chain, turn (11, 13, 14, 16, 17, 19 dc) (10, 12, 13, 15, 16, 18 ch-spaces). R4: Ch2, *hbDc in chain space, hbDc in next stitch; Rep from * to last chain space. Make a hbDc into the last chain space and make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 2nd chain of the turning chain, turn. (21, 25, 27, 31, 33, 37 sts). Sizes XS, S & M Sizes L, XL& 2XL Repeat rows 1 – 4: 12 times.


Sizes L, XL& 2XL Repeat rows 1 – 4: 13 times. Please note: There are more repeats indicated for the front panels than the back panels. This is because the front panel is instructions for rows 1 – 8 while the front panels begin with rows 1 – 4. Therefore the font panels need an extra set of the pattern repeat to be the same length as the back panel.

Front Panel 2

Yarn on at the other stitch marker and repeat the instructions for Panel 1. When finished weave in all loose ends

Sleeves Make x 2

Foundation Chain: 38 (42, 44, 48, 50, 54) **Tip** Some testers found the sleeves too snug. If you like a looser sleeve then make the sleeve panels 1 or 2 sizes up from the size you are following for the back and front panels. If you are unsure what sized to pick, measure the circumference of the widest part of your arm and compare it the table with the sleeve widths on page 3. R 1: HbDc in 3rd chain from hook. HbDc in every ch to the end of the row, turn (37, 41, 43, 47, 49, 53). R2: Ch3, sk1, *hbDc, ch1, sk1; Rep from


* to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 2nd chain of the turning chain, turn. The last stitch of this row is the skipped ch2 from the foundation chain (19, 21, 22, 24, 25, 27 dc) (18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 26 ch-spaces). R3: Ch3 (counts as hbDc and ch1), *sk the ch1-space, hbDc into the next stitch, ch1; Rep from * to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 2nd chain of the turning chain, turn(19, 21, 22, 24, 25, 27 dc) (18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 26 ch-spaces). R4: Ch2, *hbDc in ch1-space, hbDc in next stitch; Rep from * to last chain space. Make a hbDc into the last chain space and make the last hbDc of the row into the 2nd chain of the turning chain, turn (37, 41, 43, 47, 49, 53). R5: Ch2, hbDcBlo in each stitch to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 2nd chain of the turning chain


, turn (37, 41, 43, 47, 49, 53). R6: Ch3 (counts as hbDc and ch1), sk1, *hbDc, ch1, sk1; Rep from * to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 2nd chain of the turning chain, turn (19, 21, 22, 24, 25, 27 dc) (18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 26 ch-spaces). R7: Ch3 (counts as hbDc and ch1), *sk the ch1-space, hbDc into the next stitch, ch1; Rep from * to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 2nd chain of the turning chain, turn (19, 21, 22, 24, 25, 27 dc) (18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 26 ch-spaces). R8: Ch2, *hbDc in chain space, hbDc in next stitch; Rep from * to last chain space. Make a hbDc into the last chain space and make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 2nd chain of the turning chain (37, 41, 43, 47, 49, 53). All Sizes Repeat rows 5 – 8: 7 times. When finished the last row yarn off and weave in loose ends.


Seaming the Panels

Seam One: Adding the Sleeves Lay both panels out flat with the right-side facing up. Place a stitch marker in the center stitch on each the sleeves where they will be attached to the panel. This is the centre of the short-side of each sleeve. Use the same (or another stitch marker) to attach the sleeves direcly onto the middle point of the side of the front and back panels. The seam you should make is indicated with the orange arrow on the diagram. Using the mattress stitch, start at one end of a sleeve and sew it onto the front panel and back panel of the pullover. You can use stitch markers to hold the sleeve in place. Repeat this for the other sleeve. Seam Two: The sides & the sleeves Turn the cardigan inside-out so that the wrong-side is on the outside (you should not be able to see the ridges made with the ‘back-loop-only’ rows). Fold the cardigan in half. The sleeves should also be folded in half. Starting at the bottom right-handside of the front panel use the WIP stitch to sew the sides of t


he panel together. When you reach the sleeve continue on sewing the two sides of the sleeve together. Repeat this on the bottom left-handside of the pullover. Where you must sew is indicated with a green lineon the diagram. *Tip*: When you are sewing the sides of the panels and the sleeves be very careful to make sure that you line up the panels correctly. You can check as you go by making sure the rows with ridges line on the front and back panels. You can do the same when you get to the sleeves.

Finishing Touches: The Edging

The sample pullover has a double crochet ribbing around: ~ The bottom hemline; ~ The sides and neckline. Hemline With the right-side facing outward again, turn the cardigan upside down. Yarn on to the left-hand side panel at the edge. Row 1: Ch1, 2dc in each st around the entire hemline of the cardigan. You will finish the row at the end of the other front panel. Turn. Row 2: Ch 1, dc in the same st. *


BpDc, fpDc; Repeat from * to the last stitch. To end the row make a dc in last st, turn. Rows 3-7: Repeat row 2. Row 8: Sl st loosely in each st to the end of the row. Yarn off and weave in loose ends. Neckline Lay the cardigan down on a flat surface. Turn it sideways so that side of the left front panel is closest to you. Yarn on the the edge of the ribbing on the the hemline. Row 1: Ch2,2 dc in each stitch around to the end of the hemline ribbing on the other front panel. Only make 1dc into the side of each row. If you make more than 1dc the neckline will become ‘bunched’. Rows 2 – 8: Repeat the same instructions as the ribbing for the hemline. Cuffs Round 1: Yarn on beside the seam of the sleeve. Ch 1, 1sc in the same stitch. 1sc in each stitch around. Close the round with a slip stitch into the first sc. Round 2: Slip stitch in each stich in the round. Yarn off and weave in loose ends. To finish: Roll back each sleeve (I rolled it back by one panel of the pattern stitch). Sew in place underneath the fold on each side of the cuff to secure the cuff in place. I hope you have enjoyed making the Winter Solstice Crochet Cardigan as much I have designing it. I would love to see your finished pieces, you can share them with me here: Tag your work on instagram with #onedutchstitch Share on the One Dutch Stitch Facebook Community Pin it on Pinterest If you have any questions or feedback I am always happy to hear from you. You can find my contact details on my contact page by clicking here.




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