I am so excited that I can finally share the Harvest Moon Crochet Poncho with you all! It it such a wonderful poncho that is the perfect crocheting project for cooler weather. This free poncho pattern works up quite quickly and comes in two difficulty levels: beginner & intermediate. Read on to find out more about what crochet stitches you need to know, the design process and yarn options. Or you can scroll down for the free written pattern.
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The Harvest Moon Crochet Poncho – A Free Crochet Pattern
Save for Later
If you want to make the Harvest Moon Poncho don’t forget to save it for later! You can also find the links below for the inexpensive PDF patterns on Etsy and Ravelry:
〜PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
〜Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.
The Harvest Moon Crochet Poncho – A Free Crochet Pattern
Inspiration
I don’t know if it is the same for everyone but when I receive new yarn I get a premonition that the yarn is supposed to be made into something specific, like a scarf or jumper. With the Butterfly skeins I bought from Hobbii I felt that they needed to become a poncho! It may be a little strange but that is why I was inspired to design this piece. This free crochet pattern for the Harvest Moon Crochet Poncho is a little unusual because I offer both a beginner and an intermediate version of the pattern. While I was designing the poncho I felt that a more complicated crochet stitch would show off the quality of the yarn I was using. When I worked up the Turkish crochet stitch I was in love! I knew that the Turkish crochet stitch would be too difficult for beginners and so this is why I offer a beginner version without this stitch. That’s not to say that there isn’t plenty of fun crochet stitches within this pattern to keep it interesting for beginners! Read on to see the difficulty level of this pattern and the stitches involved in each panel.
The Harvest Moon Crochet Poncho – A Free Crochet Pattern
Difficulty level
If you are a beginner crocheter who is looking to learn some new stitches then this is the crochet poncho pattern for you! The panel (Panel B) for the beginner version is made up of a mix of stitches including: the double crochet, the double crochet back loop only, the double crochet front loop only, chain spaces and the pineapple crochet stitch (a variation on the puff stitch). If you want to be more adventurous you can try the intermediate version which has a feature stitch known as the Turkish crochet stitch. There is no shaping required for this pattern so you can enjoy working up the two panels and maybe even binge-watch your favourite TV show once you get the hang of the stitches.
The Harvest Moon Crochet Poncho – A Free Crochet Pattern
Yarn & Materials
When I first began to crochet I only used gradient yarn because I loved the colour changes. It has been a long time now since I used a variegated yarn but I was very taken with Hobbii’s new premium 100% acrylic line called Butterfly. It’s not your standard gradient yarn as the colour changes are quite abrupt but I enjoyed making something in colours I would not normally use (and by that I mean blue!) The yarn itself is wonderful to work with: it is soft, shiny and it stood the test of lots of frogging while I designed and it has not piled at all. You can swap it out for any premium anti-pilling acrylic or you can really go for bold and make it in a different fibre like 100% wool for a really toasty, winter poncho!
If you are looking for a good crochet hook there are two brands that I love working with. I designed this poncho using the Clover Amour hooks, you can get size 4mm here. I have recently began working with the Addi Swing hooks because I wanted some hooks with a longer handle. They were strange to use at first but I quickly got used to the long ergonomic handles that are so comfortable to use! You can get a 4mm Addi Swing hook here.
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. This means that if you click on these links & make a purchase I will receive a small commission. This won’t cost you anything but it does make it possible for me to keep providing my patterns for free here on One Dutch Stitch. For more information please see my disclosure policy & thank you so much for your support!
You can find all of the pics & yarn info on the tester ponchos at the bottom of the page
A Big Thank You
The Harvest Moon Poncho crochet pattern was thoroughly tested by a very talented group of crafters. A big thank you to testers Jo Emily Murrall, Jane Holden, Windy Carson & Elize du Toit. You can find the pictures, yarn types and total meterage used by each tester for their ponchos at the bottom of this page.
The Pattern
Save it for Later
If you want to make the Harvest Moon Poncho don’t forget to save it for later! You can also find the links below for the inexpensive PDF patterns on Etsy and Ravelry:
〜PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
〜Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.
〜 Scroll down for the free pattern.
Materials
Terminology: American (US)
Skill level: Beginner (without feature stitch) – Intermediate (with feature stitch).
Skill requirements: Mattress Stitch for seaming.
Required materials: Yarn, hook, scissors, a blunt yarn or tapestry needle, 6 stitch markers and a measuring tape.
Hook Size: 4mm / US 6
Sizing: XS/S | M/L | XL/XXL
Gauge Panel A: Feature stitch: 4 motifs and 10 rows in each 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”). To make a gauge swatch follow the feature pattern stitch rows 1 and onwards on panel A until you have a swatch slightly larger than each 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”).
Gauge Panel B: 18 stitches and 10 rows in each 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”). To make a gauge swatch follow the pattern stitch on panel B from rows 1 and onwards until you have a swatch slightly larger than each 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”).
Suggested Yarn: The sample piece used Hobbii Monarch in Butterfly (100% premium acrylic).
Yarn weight: 3 or Fine (US) | DK or 8ply (UK) | 8ply (AUS)
Yarn quantities
XS / S: Approx 900 – 1000 meters
M/L: Approx 1000 – 1100 meters
XL/ XXL: Approx 1200 – 1300 meters
Resources
The Turkish (Feature) Stitch
Find a graph, picture & YouTube video tutorial of the Turkish Stitch at this link: https://ellej.org/en/turst-3/.
Mattress Stitch
You can watch a video tutorial for the mattress stitch from Heart Hook Home at this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2ihsbNpZto.
Crochet Stitches
ch chain
ch-space chain space
st(s) stitch(es)
sk skip a stitch
sc single crochet
dc double crochet
dcBlo double crochet back loop only
dcFlo double crochet front loop only
Ps Pineapple stitch
Ps2Tog 2 Pineapple stitches worked together
rep repeat
Special Crochet Stitches
Pineapple Stitch Yarn over, *insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop to half double crochet length. Repeat from * 3 more times. Yarn over pull hook through first 8 stitches. You should have 2 stitches left on your hook. Yarn over pull hook through last 2 stitches.
Two Pineapple Stitches crocheted together: Yarn over, *insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop to half double crochet length. Repeat from the * 3 more times. Yarn over, *insert hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop. Repeat from the * 3 more times. You should now have 2 sets of 8 loops coming out of each stitch and 1 extra loop at the end of your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first 8 loops. Yarn over and pull through the first loop to close that puff. Yarn over and pull through this loop and the next 8 loops. Yarn over and pull through last 2 loops.
The feature stitch: the Turkish stitch
For a graph, picture & YouTube video tutorial of the Turkish Stitch see: https://ellej.org/en/turst-3/. This pattern replaces the Puff stitch used by Ellej with a Pineapple stitch ( a variation of the puff stitch). This pattern also makes the beginning and end stitches slightly differently to maintain straighter edges. This pattern does not make the ch2 and first Pineapple stitch together at the beginning and end of Row 3. The rest of the stitches of each row is the same.
Sizing
The following sizes will work out approximately in the final measurements. Do not worry if your panels do not meet these exact measurements: exact sizing is not important for this poncho. For reference: the sample poncho in Monarch – Butterfly is size XS/S and the model is 5ft 3” or 160cm.
XS / S: 15 x 30” | 38 x 76cm
M/L: 16 x 31” | 41 x 79cm
XL/XXL 17 x 33” | 43 x 84cm
Difficulty Level
This poncho has two difficult levels: beginner and intermediate.
This picture shows that Panel A (the yellow and rose-gold stitches) has a feature stitch known as the Turkish Stitch. For this stitch the required skill is working multiple stitches into one chain space and working the 2 Pineapple stitches together. The intermediate level will make 1x panel A with the feature stitch and 1x panel B without this stitch. Beginner level will make 2x panel B without the feature stitch.
Beginners: Make panel B x2 times.
Intermediate: Make panel A x1 time, make panel B x1 time.
Before you Begin
If you are making the poncho in multiples colours: wind of a length of yarn (about 150cm) off the starting colour so that you can use it for sewing the panels together later.
If you are using the sample yarn (Hobbii Butterfly in Monarch) the sample piece started Panel A from the inside of the skein. Panel B was started using the outside of the skein.
Making a Gauge Swatch
Making a gauge swatch is important for determining that the poncho will work up in the correct size. However, gauge does not need to be exact so small variations are not problematic. Make sure to make a swatch before you begin your project and adjust your hook size or yarn weight as needed.
To make a gauge swatch follow the pattern stitch for Panel A & B for intermediate & Panel B for beginner until you have a swatch that is larger than 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”). Your swatch should follow the foundation chain & rows 1, 2, 3, etc onwards until your swatch is large enough.
A gauge swatch should be larger than 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”) to accurately determine your tension. This is because the foundation chain and first few rows tend to be slightly tighter and should not be used to measure gauge.
If you have the correct number of stitches per cm/ inch but the rows do not match the sample gauge then you can adjust the height of your stitches. If you have too many rows your stitches are not tall enough. If you have too few rows your stitches are too tall. When you insert the hook to make a new stitch, draw up a little more yarn if your stitches are not tall enough or draw up less yarn if your stitches are too tall.
If your swatch has a number of more stitches than the pattern gauge then make a second swatch with a larger hook.
If your swatch has significantly more stitches and rows than the pattern gauge then the yarn you are using may not be heavy enough. Try using a heavier weigh yarn or use the same yarn and make a larger size.
If your swatch has a number of less stitches than the pattern gauge then make a second swatch with a smaller hook.
If your swatch has significantly less stitches and rows than the pattern gauge then the yarn you are using may be too heavy. Try using a lighter weighted yarn or use the same yarn and make a smaller size.
The Pattern
Panel A
Level intermediate: Make x 1
The turning chain counts as a dc. The last stitch of the row is always the 3rd loop of the turning chain.
Stitch counts are listed in brackets at the end of the row.
Rows 1 – 17: Feature Stitch (Turkish Stitch)
Foundation chain: Ch 71 (76, 81) for sizes XS/S (M/L, XL/XXL).
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each chain to the end of the row, turn. (70, 75, 80 sc).
Row 2: Ch3 (counts as dc), 2dc in same st. Ch 1, sk 3 sts, 4dc in next st. *Ch 1, sk 4 sts, 4dc in next st; Rep from * to the end of the row. End the row with 3dc in last st, turn (59dc & 14ch-space, 63 dc & 15 ch-space, 67dc & 16 ch-space).
Row 3: Ch3 (counts as dc). Into next ch1 space work [1Ps, ch1, 2dc, ch1]. *In the same ch-space and into next ch-space make Ps2tog, ch1. Into the next ch-space work [2dc, ch1]; Rep from * to the last ch1 space. To finish row, make 1Ps in this ch1 space and 1dc in the last st, turn (28 Ps & 30dc, 30Ps & 32dc, 32Ps & 34dc).
Row 4: Ch3 (counts as dc), 2dc in same st. *Ch1, 4dc into the next ch-space above the Ps2Tog; Rep from * to the end of the row. End the row with 3dc in the last st, turn (59dc & 14ch-space, 63 dc & 15 ch-space, 67dc & 16 ch-space).
All Sizes
Repeat rows 3 & 4 until row 17 (row 17 is a repeat of row 3).
Row 18: end of feature stitch
Row 18: Ch 7 (counts as dc and ch4), *dc in the gap made above the 2PsTog, ch 4; Rep from * to end of row. End row with 1dc in last st, turn.
Stitch Count
Sizes XS/ S: 14 ch spaces & 15 dc.
Sizes M/ L: 15 ch spaces & 16 dc.
Sizes XL/ XXL 16 ch spaces & 17 dc.
Row 19: Specific Sizing
*TIP* Be careful to keep your tension the same from Row 19 onwards after completing the feature stitch. If you tend to have a looser tension you may need to go down a hook size to prevent the panel from flaring outwards.
Size XS / S – Row 19: Ch3 (counts as dc), 3dc in next ch-space, *1dc in next dc, 4dc in next ch-space; Rep from * to end of row. End row with 1dc in last st, turn. (70 dc).
Size M/L – Row 19: Ch3 (counts as dc), *4dc in next ch-space, 1dc in next dc; Rep from * to the end of the row. End the row with 1dc in last st, turn (76 dc).
Size XL / XXL – Row 19: Ch3 (counts as dc), *4dc in next ch-space, 1dc in next dc; Rep from * to the last ch-space. 5dc into the last ch-space. End the row with 1dc in last st, turn (82 dc).
Rows 20 – 25: All Sizes
Row 20: DcFlo in each stitch to end of row. End row with 1dc in last st, turn. (70, 76, 82 dc).
Row 21: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch3). *Sk 2 sts, 1dc in next st, ch3; Rep from * to end of row. End row with 1dc in last st, turn. (23 ch-space & 24dc, 25ch space & 26dc, 27ch-space & 28 dc).
Row 22: Ch 3 (counts as dc), * 2dc in ch-space, 1dc in next dc; Rep from * to end of row. End row with 1dc in last st, turn. (70, 76, 82 dc).
Row 23: DcBlo in each stitch to the end of the row. End row with 1dc in last st, turn (70, 76, 82 dc).
Row 24: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch4). *Sk 2 sts, 1dc in next st, ch3; Rep from * to end of row. End row with 1dc in last st, turn (23 ch-space & 24dc, 25ch space & 26dc, 27ch-space & 28 dc).
Row 25: Ch 3 (counts as dc),* 2dc in ch-space, 1dc in next dc; Rep from * to end of row. End row with 1dc in last st, turn (70, 76, 82 dc).
Row 26 onwards: Specific Sizing
Size XS – S: Repeat rows 20 – 25 until row 77. Yarn off and weave in all loose ends.
Size M – L: Repeat rows 20 – 25 until row 80. Yarn off and weave in all loose ends.
Size XL – XXL Repeat rows 20 – 25 until row 83. Yarn off and weave in all loose ends.
Panel B
Level beginner: Make x 2 | Level intermediate: Make x 1
The turning chain counts as a dc. The last stitch of the row is always the 3rd loop of the turning chain.
Stitch counts are listed in brackets at the end of the row.
Foundation chain: Ch 71 (77, 83) for sizes XS/S (M/L, XL/XXL).
Row 1: In 2nd ch make a sc, 1sc in each chain to the end of the row, turn (70, 76, 82 sc).
Row 2: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch3). *Sk 2 sts, 1dc in next st, ch3; Rep from * to end of row. End the row with 1dc in the last st, turn (23 ch-space & 24dc, 25ch space & 26dc, 27ch-space & 28 dc).
Row 3: Ch 3, * 2dc in ch-space, 1dc in next dc; Rep from * to end of the row. End row with 1dc in the last st, turn (70, 76, 82 dc).
Row 4: Ch 3 dcFlo in each stitch to end of row. End the row with 1dc in the last st, turn (70, 76, 82 dc).
Row 5: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch3). *Sk 2 sts, 1dc in next st, ch3; Rep from * to end of the row. End row with 1dc in the last st, turn. (23 ch-space & 24dc, 25ch space & 26dc, 27ch-space & 28 dc).
Row 6: Ch 3, * 2dc in ch-space, 1dc in next dc; Rep from * to end of the row. End row with 1dc in the last st, turn (70, 76, 82 dc).
Row 7: Ch3, dcBlo in each stitch to end of row. End the row with 1dc in the last st, turn (70, 76, 82 dc).
Row 8: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch3). *Sk 2 sts, 1dc in next st, ch3; Rep from * to end of the row. End the row with 1dc in the last st, turn. (23 ch-space & 24dc, 25ch space & 26dc, 27ch-space & 28 dc).
Row 9: Ch 3, * 2dc in ch-space, 1dc in next dc; Rep from * to end of the row. End the row with 1dc in the last st, turn (70, 76, 82 dc).
Row 10: Ch 3 dcFlo in each stitch to end of the row. End the row with 1dc in the last st, turn (70, 76, 82 dc).
Row 11: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch1),*sk1, 1Ps in the next stitch, ch 1; Rep from * to last 4sts. 1Ps in the next st, ch1, sk 2, 1dc in last st of the row, turn (33Ps & 2dc, 36 Ps & 2dc, 39 Ps & 2dc).
Row 12: Ch3, 2dc in next ch1-space. *1dc in top-most st above the next Ps, 1dc in next ch1-space; Rep from * to end of the row. End the row with 1dc in the last st, turn (70, 76, 82 dc).
Row 13: Ch 3, dcBlo in each stitch to end of the row. End the row with 1dc in the last st, turn (70, 76, 82 dc).
*Tip* If you are adapting the pattern & using a lighter weight yarn make an extra loop on the Pineapple stitch to add more bulk to the stitch.
Rows 14 onwards: Specific Sizing
Size XS/S
Rows 14 – 76: Repeat rows 2 – 13. Yarn off and weave in all loose ends.
Size M/L
Rows 14 – 79: Repeat rows 2 – 13. Yarn off and weave in all loose ends.
Size L/XL
Rows 14 – 84: Repeat rows 2 – 13. Yarn off and weave in all loose ends.
Poncho Assembly
Seam One
Lay both panels down on a flat surface with the right side facing upwards. The right side of both panels can be identified with the raised ridges created between the rows of double crochets. The wrong side will have no ridges between the double crochets.
Take both panels and lay them down on a flat surface making a capital L shape.
〜 Beginner level: it does not matter which panel make up the horizontal and vertical line of the L
〜 The panel without the feature stitch should be the vertical line of the L.
〜 The panel with the feature stitch will be the horizontal line of the L, with the feature stitch side against the first panel.
Using the mattress stitch seam the two panels together.
〜 Make the stitches into the top loops of the panel with the feature stitches and into the side & chain spaces of the other panel.
〜 If making the poncho in multiple colours use the same coloured yarn that was used for the feature stitch.
〜 If you have not made a panel with the feature stitch then use the same colour yarn as the first row of the panel that is being attached as the vertical line of the L shape.
〜Weave in the loose ends.
Seam Two
Place the two seamed panels in front of you with the right-side up. Place the panels with the Seam One as a horizontal line directly in front of you. It should look like and L lying on its side.
1. Take the right-hand-side end of the horizontal panel and fold it so that it meets the first line of the vertical panel. See Image A.
2. Take the very bottom piece of the vertical panel and fold It completely in half. See image B.
3. Both pieces should now make a giant heart-shape.
4. Place stitch markers to hold the panels in place & turn the panels inside-out. The right-side should now be on the outside again.
5. Use the mattress stitch to sew the two panels together (along the line the arrows are pointing to in Image A). Use the same coloured yarn as the yarn that panel B was finished with.
6. Weave in loose ends.
The Neckline
When you try the poncho on at this point it will be hanging low and falling down your shoulders. Once you add the neckline edging this will no longer happen. The neckline is made up of a series of edges from the rough side of the panels. The double crochets of Round 1 should be made loosely and evenly into each chain space and side of each dc.
Round 1: With the right-side facing up yarn on anywhere at the back-side of the neckline . Ch2, in the same st make 1dc, 1dc in each stitch around to the end of the round. End the round by slip stitching to the top of the first dc and not the top of the ch2.
Round 2: Ch2, 1dc in same st. 1dc in each stitch to end of round. End round by slip stitching to the top of the first dc and not the top of the ch2.
Round 3: Ch1, 1sc in same st. 1sc in each stitch to end of round. End round by slip stitching to the top of the first sc of the row and not the ch1. Yarn off and weave in loose ends.
The Hemline
The hemline is made up of a combination of the short and long side of both panels.
〜 The short sides will have stitches than can be easily crocheted into with single crochets. In the short sides a single crochet will be made into each stitch.
〜 The long sides are made up of the sides of double crochets and of chain spaces. On the long sides the edging will be made up of chain 5’s and 1 single crochet into each chain space (see the image on the right).
Round 1: With the right side facing up yarn on to the back panel of the poncho at the hemline. You can do this at any point but it is easier to do this just after the longest point of poncho at the back. This should be where the short side of one of the panels begins.
Ch1, 1sc into the same stitch. 1sc in each stitch until you reach the first long side of the panel. *Ch 5 and make 1sc into the next chain space; Rep from * until the beginning of the next short side of a panel. 1sc in each stitch of the short side panel until you reach the next long side of the panel. Repeat these steps until you reach the beginning of the round. End the round by slip stitching to the first sc of the round and not the ch1. Weave in all loose ends.
Tester Ponchos
Jane Holden
Deramores Studio DK (Acrylic) in Latte.
Size M/L: 1000 meters or 5 skeins.
Windy Carson
Lionbrand Cupcake (Acrylic) in Sandcastle.
Size M/L: 1080 meters or 2 cakes.
Elize du Toit
Charity Pullskein DK (Acrylic) in White.
Size XL/XXL – 1200 meters or 6 skeins.
Jo Emily Murrell
Crochet UK (4ply) (Cotton Acyrlic Mix) in Oban.
Size XL/XXL – 1300 meters or 2 skeins.
I hope you have enjoyed making the Harvest Moon Crochet Poncho as much I did designing it. I would love to see your finished pieces, you can share them with me here:
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