The Solar Flare Crochet Cardigan is a new-beginner friendly pattern. This pattern is unbelievable easy to make: you can try it out as your first cardigan project. Read through my inspiration for this cardigan and the design process. Or you can just scroll on down for the free pattern.
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The Solar Flare Crochet Cardigan front panel worn
Save it for Later
If you want to make the Solar Flare Crochet Cardigan don’t forget to save it for later! You can also find the links below for the inexpensive PDF patterns on Etsy and Ravelry:
〜 Get the Ad Free, easy to follow, large print, printable PDF pattern on ETSY or RAVELRY.
〜PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
〜Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.
The Pattern Stitch
The Solar Flare Crochet Cardigan Pattern Stitch
The Solar Flare Crochet Cardigan is just oozing with texture. It is amazing to think that all this comes from using just one stitch: the herringbone double crochet! The added texture comes from working some of the rows in the front loop only and skipping stitches. I know that the pattern stitch looks complicated but it is just so incredibly easy to make. It is essentially three rectangles sewn together. You just make the foundation chain for the panel and work until you have enough rows. The Solar Flare Crochet Cardigan is such a relaxing project: there are no increases and decreases so once you get the hang of the four row repeats you can just sit and let your hands do all the work. This makes the Solar Flare Crochet Cardigan a Netflix binge-worthy project.
Zooming out a bit from the pattern stitch you can see that the Solar Flare Crochet Cardigan has very distinct arrows in each colour block. I wanted to make a summer cardigan that had a vertical striped pattern because most striped crochet cardigans have horizontal stripes. I am a shorty so making vertical stripes gives the illusion of length (not to mention being so much more slimming than horizontal stripes!) This means that the cardigan is worked from side to side and not top to bottom. So your foundation chain determines how long the cardigan is and not how wide. This makes it so easy to change the sizing to suit your own shape.
The Sleeves
The sleeves of the Solar Flare Crochet Cardigan are also easy to make so don’t be intimidated by this (I explain more about this in the pattern below). I personally like to have small arm openings (you can see this in the above pic) but it would also look nice with flared sleeves. You just leave a larger arm opening for this. I made it both ways: take a look at the picture below to see the flared sleeve.
The Yarn
I need to tell you a little bit about the yarn I choose to make the Solar Flare Crochet Cardigan. This yarn is a dutch brand called Durable Yarn and the line is Cosy Fine. This yarn is a cotton and cotton (58%) and acrylic (42%) blend. This makes the cardigan warm but breathable for the summer and autumn. It also gives the cardigan that little bit of extra texture. You can sub out this yarn for any similar cotton blend or you could try it out in 100% cotton for a very light cardigan. I must admit I was so nervous making the Solar Flare Crochet Cardigan in this colour combo: I wanted to use mint green and ivory but I used that colour combo for my last design. I would love to see this in different colours or even in just one colour block. I have images of it looking lovely in pale grey or even in a whole host of rainbow colours!
Durable Yarn – Cosy Fine
Yarn Alternatives
I am currently searching for a stockist who will supply Durable Yarn – Cosy Fine outside of mainland Europe. I will update here as soon as this has been arranged.
In the meantime, you can substitute Durable Cosy Fine with these similar weight 3 or DK yarns that I have listed below. These are also cotton / acrylic mixes. You can buy these yarns by clicking directly on the links or pictures below:
Sirdar Snuggly Replay DK
To purchase in the USA click HERE
To purchase in the UK click HERE
Rico Baby Soft DK
To purchase in the USA click HERE
To purchase in the UK click HERE
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. This means that if you click on these links & make a purchase I will receive a small commission. This won’t cost you anything but it does make it possible for me to keep providing my patterns for free here on One Dutch Stitch. For more information please see my disclosure policy & thank you so much for your support!
A Winter Cardigan
Before you ask I will definitely be adapteing the Solar Flare Crochet Cardigan as a shorter but long sleeved warm, winter cardigan! As a self-confessed yarn addict I already have a ton of winter yarn waiting to be used in my stash. You could also make the Solar Flare Crochet Cardigan with long sleeves. You just need to yarn on and repeat rows 5 – 8 in the arm-openings once you have seamed the sides. Then just seam the sleeves together and add an edging! If you want to wait for the winter version you can also subscribe to the blog and receive an email update whenever I publish a new pattern (see the top right hand-side of the page).
The Pattern
Please carefully read all of the instructions before you begin the cardigan.
〜 Get the Ad Free easy to follow, large print, printable PDF pattern on ETSY or RAVELRY.
〜 PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
〜 Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.
〜 Scroll down for the free pattern.
Materials
Terminology: American (US)
Skill level: Beginner
Skill requirements: Mattress Stitch for seaming
Required materials: Yarn, hook, scissors and a blunt yarn or tapestry needle
Hook Size: 4.5mm / US 7
Sizing: XS, S, M, L, XL
Suggested Yarn: The sample piece used Durable Yarn – Cosy Fine in Honey (2179) and Ivory (326). This yarn is a heavy DK and is close to the next yarn weight: Aran | Worsted | Medium weight yarn
Yarn weight: 3 or Fine (US) | DK or 8ply (UK) | 8ply (AUS) or
4 or Medium (US) | Worsted or 10ply (UK) | 10ply (AUS)
Gauge: 13 stitches and 8 rows in each 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”). The sample piece used a heavy DK yarn that is closer yarn weight to 4 or Medium | Worsted | Aran. To make gauge you need to use a heavy DK or go up to the next yarn weight as indicated in bold.
Yarn quantities:
Size XS – 970 meters | 380 grams
Size S – 1, 050 meters | 420 grams
Size M – 1, 250 meters | 500grams
Size L – 1, 450 meters | 580 grams
Size XL – 1, 650 meters | 660 grams
Resources
Mattress Stitch
You can watch a video tutorial for the mattress stitch from Heart Hook Home’s You Tube channel at the following link: https://youtu.be/G2ihsbNpZto
.
Stitches
St(s) stitch(es)
sk skip a stitch
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
hdc half-double crochet
hbDc herringbone double crochet
hbDcFlo herringbone double crochet front loop only
rep repeat
Hbdc: Yarn over, insert hook into the stitch & pull up a loop. Pull the third loop through the second
loop on the hook. You now have two loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through the first loop.
Yarn over and pull through the last two loops.
Sizing
XSSMLXLBack Panel Width55cm
21.6″65cm
25.5″
75cm2
29.5″
85cm
33.4″
95cm
37.4″Front Panel Width21cm
8.2″21cm
8.2″26cm
10.2″31cm
12.2″36cm
14.1″
Choosing a Size
The cardigan is made of: 1 x back-panel and 2x side-panels.
The side- panels are seamed to back-panel at the top and sides, leaving a space for the arm openings.
Length: The model wearing the sample cardigan is 5ft 3” wearing size XS
〜The cardigan is crocheted from side to side and not from the collar to the hem (top – bottom). This means that the foundation chain determines how long the cardigan will be.
〜The sample cardigan is 72cm from collar to hem. If you want to adjust the length of the cardigan you need to make the foundation chain longer or shorter.
〜 To make the cardigan longer add in multiples of 2 to the foundation chain. For example: (107 +2) or (107 + 4). To make the cardigan shorter you decrease the foundation chain number by multiples of 2.
〜 To make the cardigan wider you add more repeats of Rows 5 – 8.
How to choose a size:
〜 The cardigan is over-sized and not a perfect fit.
〜The cardigan can be made wider by repeating rows 5-8. These 4 rows add an additional stripe to the cardigan
〜 The width of the cardigan can be reduced by not making as many repeats of rows 5 – 8.
〜 For sizes above XL: Keep adding rows of 5 – 8 until the back and front panels are wide enough.
Notes on the Pattern Stitch
The Turning Chain and Turning Chain Stitch
〜 When making the back and front panels the turning chain at the beginning of each row counts as a herringbone double crochet.
〜 This means you do not make the first stitch each row into the turning chain stitch (the stitch where the turning chain is coming from).
〜 You must also finish the row by making the last herringbone double crochet into the 3rd stitch of the turning chain.
Making a Gauge Swatch
Making a gauge swatch is very important for determining that the Solar Flare Cardigan will work up in the correct size. Make sure to make a swatch before you begin your project and adjust your hook size or yarn weight as needed.
To make a gauge swatch follow the pattern stitch until you have a swatch that is longer than 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”). You swatch should follow the foundation chain & rows 1, 2, 3, etc onwards until your swatch is larger enough.
A gauge swatch should be larger than 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”) to accurately determine your tension. This is because the foundation chain and first few rows tend to be slightly tighter and should not be used to measure gauge.
If you have the correct number of stitches per cm/ inch but your rows do not match the sample gauge then you can adjust the height of your stitches. If you have too many rows your stitches are not tall enough. Ig you have too few rows then your stitches are too tall. When you insert the hook to make a new stitch, draw up a little more yarn if your stitches are not tall enough or draw up less yarn if your stitches are too tall.
If your swatch has more stitches than the pattern gauge then make a second swatch with a larger hook.
If your swatch has significantly more stitches and rows than the pattern gauge then the yarn you are using may not be heavy enough. Try using a heavier weighted yarn or use the same yarn but make a larger size.
If your swatch has less stitches than the pattern gauge then make a second swatch with a smaller hook.
If your swatch has significantly less stitches and rows than the pattern gauge then the yarn you are using is too heavy. Try using a lighter weighted yarn or use the same yarn but make a smaller size.
The Back Panel
Make x 1
FC Using first colour, ch 107. To make a cardigan that is longer than 72cm then add 14 extra chains for an extra 10cm of length (if you have made gauge).
R 1 HbDc in 4th chain from hook. HbDc in every ch to the end of the row, turn. (105 sts)
R2 Ch4, sk1, *hbDcFlo, ch1, sk1; Rep from * to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 3rd chain of the turning chain, turn. (53 sts)
R3 Ch4 (counts as hbDc and ch1), *sk the ch1-space, hbDcFlo into the next stitch, ch1; Rep from * to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 3rd chain of the turning chain, turn. (53 sts)
R4 Ch3, *hbDc in ch1-space, hbDc in next stitch; Rep from * to last chain space. Make a hbDc into the last chain space and make the last hbDc of the row into the 3rd chain of the turning chain, turn. (105 sts)
R5 Yarn on in next colour. Ch3, hbDcFlo in each stitch to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 3rd chain of the turning chain, turn. (105 sts)
R6 Ch4 (counts as hbDc and ch1), sk1, *hbDcFlo, ch1, sk1; Rep from * to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 3rd chain of the turning chain, turn (53 sts)
R7 Ch4 (counts as hbDc and ch1), *sk the ch1-space, hbDcFlo into the next stitch, ch1; Rep from * to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 3rd chain of the turning chain, turn. (53 sts)
R8 Ch3, *hbDc in chain space, hbDc in next stitch; Rep from * to last chain space. Make a hbDc into the last chain space and make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into 3rd chain of the turning chain. Yarn off. (105 sts).
Row 9 Onwards:
Size XS
Repeat rows 5 – 8 (x 9 times).
Size S
Repeat rows 5 – 8 (x 11 times).
Size M
Repeat rows 5 – 8 (x 13 times).
Size L
Repeat rows 5 – 8 (x 15 times).
Size XL
Repeat rows 5 – 8 (x 17 times.
All sizes to finish
Weave in all loose ends. *Tip* To keep your work neat you can weave in the loose ends as you go and not at the end.
The Side Panels
Make x 2
FC Using first colour, ch 107. To make a cardigan that is longer than 72cm then add 14 extra chains for an extra 10cm of length (if you have made gauge).
R 1 HbDc in 4th chain from hook. HbDc in every ch to the end of the row, turn. (105 sts)
R2 Ch4, sk1, *hbDcFlo, ch1, sk1; Rep from * to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 3rd chain of the turning chain, turn. (53 sts)
R3 Ch4 (counts as hbDc and ch1), *sk the ch1-space, hbDcFlo into the next stitch, ch1; Rep from * to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 3rd chain of the turning chain, turn. (53 sts)
R4 Ch3, *hbDc in ch1-space, hbDc in next stitch; Rep from * to last chain space. Make a hbDc into the last chain space and make the last hbDc of the row into the 3rd chain of the turning chain, turn. (105 sts)
R5 Yarn on in next colour. Ch3, hbDcFlo in each stitch to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 3rd chain of the turning chain, turn. (105 sts)
R6 Ch4 (counts as hbDc and ch1), sk1, *hbDcFlo, ch1, sk1; Rep from * to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 3rd chain of the turning chain, turn (53 sts)
R7 Ch4 (counts as hbDc and ch1), *sk the ch1-space, hbDcFlo into the next stitch, ch1; Rep from * to the end of the row. Make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into the 3rd chain of the turning chain, turn. (53 sts)
R8 Ch3, *hbDc in chain space, hbDc in next stitch; Rep from * to last chain space. Make a hbDc into the last chain space and make the last stitch of the row a hbDc into 3rd chain of the turning chain. Yarn off. (105 sts).
Row 9 Onwards:
Size XS
Repeat rows 5 – 8 (x 2 times).
Size S
Repeat rows 5 – 8 (x 2 times).
Size M
Repeat rows 5 – 8 (x 3 times).
Size L
Repeat rows 5 – 8 (x 4 times).
Size XL
Repeat rows 5 – 8 (x 5 times).
All sizes to finish
Weave in all loose ends. *Tip* To keep your work neat you can weave in the loose ends as you go and not at the end.
Seaming the Cardigan
Choosing a right-side
You can decide which side of the panels you want to face outward (right side) when the cardigan is worn. If you look closely: one side will have a small line running through the middle of the arrows of each stripe. The other side will not have this. I chose to have the panels without the line facing outward when worn.
Seaming the shoulders
Seam the top of both side-panels to the top of the back-panel. This will create the shoulder seams. You can use the WIP stitch or the Mattress stitch to make the seams. Make sure that the arrows on all panels are facing in the same direction.
Seam the sides leaving a space for the arm openings
You can choose to have a tight or flared sleeve. Measure the arm openings down each side. Make sure you mark off the same length for each sleeve (I use stitch markers for this). I recommend trying on the cardigan after you have marked the arm-openings to make sure the sleeves are not too big or too small for you.
OPTIONAL Side-Slit (see the above image)
For more movement in the cardigan leave a slit when seaming the side panels to the back panel. After you measure out the arm-openings you can also leave a stitch marker where you would like the slit to begin at the bottom of the cardigan. Try on the cardigan (with the stitch markers holding the cardigan together) to see how deep you would like the slit opening to be.
Seam (using the WIP or Mattress Stitch) the sleeves (arm-openings) by starting to sew from the stitch marker downward until the hem (if you will not have a slit). If you will make a slit then sew downward until you reach the stitch marker you have placed to indicate where the slit will begin. Make sure the slit is the same length on each side.
The Edging
The Main Panels
Be very careful you do not make the stitches too tight here in each round. If you do this it will pull the edges of the cardigan in too tightly.
RND 1 Yarn on at any point in the colour that is not the same as the last (outside) stripe on the side-panel. In the sample piece this was white so I yarned on in yellow.
Ch2 (does not count as hdc), hdc in the turning chain stitch and in each stitch around. To finish the round: slip stitch to the first stitch of the round and not the ch2. Yarn off and weave in loose ends.
The Sleeves
Be very careful you do not make the stitches too tight here in each round. If you do this it will pull the edges of the sleeves in too tightly.
RND 1 Yarn on at the bottom of the arm opening in the colour that is not the same as the last (outside) stripe on the sleeve. In the sample piece this was yellow so I yarned on in white.
Ch2 (does not count as hdc), hdc in the turning chain stitch and in each stitch around. To finish the round: slip stitch to the first stitch of the round and not the ch2.
RND 2 Slip stitch in every stitch to end of the round. Yarn off and weave in loose ends.
***
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