With the warm weather coming in I decided I wanted to design a summer top for my two girls. We get very hot weather here in the Netherlands so I needed to make something that was light-weight and breathable. I also really wanted to design something that would look so pretty on the girls. I think in the end the Teagan Summer Crochet Top has hit the nail on the head. These tops will definitely be a firm favourite for my girls over the summer months.
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Pair the Teagan Summer Top with shorts and a summer hat
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The Yarn
I am so glad that I decided to design this top using Scheepjes Catona, which is 100% mercerised cotton. This yarn has such a lustrous sheen and the stitch definition is just amazing. While the top can be made using other types of super light-weight yarn I do think it could loose some of the wow-factor that comes from using mercerised cotton. If you don’t like Catona then I recommend swapping it out for your own favourite mercerised cotton brand. Although, I do wonder what it would look like if a variegated yarn was used. The colour changes through the stitch on the main body might look very impressive.
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Get Scheepjes Catona HERE.
Scheepjes Catona is a 100% mercerised cotton that is a superfine / fingering weight yarn.
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The front panel and yoke of the Teagan Summer Top
One of things I love about the Teagan Summer Crochet Top design is that it can be paired with leggings as well as a skirt or shorts. You can see my toddler rocking hers with some emerald green leggings above. For the Teagan Summer Top design I wanted to have a short yoke and body with an intricate design. An old top my daughter wore years ago kept popping into my mind and I remembered it had a lovely ring of little white bobbles around the neck. I wanted to recreate this look with rows of puff stitches. Picking the stitch for body was a little bit more difficult because most fan stitches leave too much a gap to be suitable for clothing. You can see that this stitch is a row of fans separated by rows of chains and V’s that the fans are then built onto. These alternating rows are what gives this stitch such a striking appearance.
The pattern stitch and yoke on the Teagan Summer Crochet Top
This stitch on the body of the Teagan Summer Crochet Top is also worked around the back in an uninterrupted round so the beautiful rows of fans run seamlessly around the top. The top is designed to be straight up and down from the chest to the hips. This requires an opening by the nape of the yoke so that the top can come on and off more easily. This can be closed with a button enclosure of ties for a bow (both options are in the free pattern below). I also added some cap sleeves that come out from underneath the shells on the shoulders. I think these sleeves are the little extra that the top needed for the last finishing touch. You can also finish off the back of the yoke with either a button fastening or a bow. I think the bow is a lovely option for the smaller sizes while a button fastening is a little more grown up.
The back panel of the Teagan Summer Crochet Top
I needed to think long and hard about the difficulty level of this pattern. In the end I decided that it is suitable for adventurous beginners to intermediate crocheters. I think there is just a little bit too much technique required for those who are new to crochet. If you are struggling with the pattern you are very welcome to contact me with your questions and the links to the paid-for picture tutorial pattern can be found at the top of the page.
The bow tie back on the Teagan Summer Crochet Top
THE TEAGAN SUMMER CROCHET TOP PATTERN
Get the Ad Free, easy to follow, printable picture tutorial PDF pattern on ETSY or RAVELRY.
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Materials
Terminology: American (US)
Skill level: Adventurous Beginners – Intermediate
Skill requirements: Working in the round, half double crochet foundation chain.
Required materials: Yarn, scissors, yarn/ wool needle (blunt) and a measuring tape and 6 stitch markers.
Optional materials: Button, sewing thread and sewing needle.
Suggested Yarn: The sample pieces used Scheepjes Catona (100% mercerised cotton yarn) in colours Bridal White, Old Rose (Top A) and Saffron (Top B).
Hook Size: 3.5mm for main body. 2.5mm for making a tie / bow back (instead of a button closure).
Sizing: 1 – 12 years
Gauge: Gauge is not used: custom or average sizing (chart provided) is determined using a measuring tape.
Yarn weight: Superfine / Fingering
Yarn quantities: Dependant on size.
Top A (6 years) – 60 grams of Bridal white. 90 grams of Old Rose.
Top B (3 years) – 35 grams of Bridal White. 75 grams of Saffron.
Stitches & Terminology
Stitches & Terminology
sl st slip stitch
sk skip a stitch
ch chain
hdcfc half double crochet foundation chain
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
hdc3l Half double crochet third loop only
dc double crochet
tc treble crochet
puff puff stitch
inc increase (2 stitches in one stitch)
dec decrease (2 stitches together)
HDC4 Make 1 hdc in each of the next 4 stitches
4HDC Make 4 hdc in the next stitch
Special Stitches
Half double crochet foundation chain: This replaces a regular foundation chain. This type of chain is necessary because the neck and under arms must have some stretch and a regular foundation chain is too tight.
Half double crochet third loop only: Behind the first two loops is a third loop. Half double crochet into this loop only.
Puff Stitch: Yarn over. Pull up a loop in the stitch (to the length of a double crochet) x 4. Yarn over and pull the yarn though all of the loops on your hook. Close the puff stitch with a single chain.
Fan: [3dc, 1ch, 3dc] in the same stitch.
Important Notes
* The top is crocheted from the yoke (shoulders) downwards in the following steps (1) The yoke, (2) marking the arm-openings, (3) the shells for the shoulders, (4) the under arm foundation chains, (5) the chest, (6) the main body, (7) the hem, (8) the cap sleeves, and (9) the button / bow enclosures.
* The stitch on the main body has small gaps in it. If you make the top too small the stitches of the main body will be stretched. Please carefully read the following instructions on this page on how to correctly pick a size for the top. If the stitches are bulging on the main body when worn then you should go up 2 sizes on the chart (or just increase the chest / body measurement if it is a custom measurement).
* When the yoke is joined and you are working in the round do not turn you work. Only turn your work when the instructions indicate you need to do this.
Average Sizes Table
Measurements
The design for this top is a straight up and down: it is the same width from the chest to the hips. You need to take into account the shape of the child you are making this top for (especially toddlers).
Longer & wider fits: The chest / body measurement should be wide enough to comfortably fit around the child from the chest downwards. For wider fits and longer tops the chest/body measurement should be the widest part of the body: this might not be the child’s chest measurement. **Please note** if you go up a size for the chest/body then just use the child’s regular chest/body size for the neck length without reducing this length by 20%.
Custom Measurements: For custom measurements make sure to measure the widest part of the torso and hips that the top will be covering. Then leave some extra room (a few cm or inches) so that it is not completely skin-tight. The stitch holds its definition even if the top is loose. It will be stretched, tight and too much skin will show through otherwise. It is best to go for a slightly larger fit than a skin-tight fit for the body.
Toddler & Baby sizes: I do not recommend making this top tight / fitted for a small child. Small children often have “buddha” or “pot” bellies because their stomach muscles have not developed yet. The top will be tight and uncomfortable on their bellies if you do not make it wide enough from the chest down. If you do not use custom measurements then size up 2 or even 3 sizes for the chest/body measurement on the sizing chart. For custom measurements use their belly as the widest point and leave an extra few cm / inches so that the stitches do not stretch.
*Please note* if you go up 2/3 sizes for the chest/body then just use the child’s regular chest / body size for the neck length without reducing this length by 20%.
There are three measurements that you need to know: (1) the neck circumference, (2) the chest / body circumference, and (3) the distance between the neck and hip.
The neck: This is the length you need to chain for the foundation row of the yoke. You cannot find a measurement for this in the table above but it is easy to calculate. The yoke should start at 20% shorter than the chest/. Body measurement. You can make the yoke the same length as the chest / body measurement but this will make the yoke wide and loose.
Example 20% smaller: Chest size = 52cm
52cm÷100 = 0.52cm 0.52cm x 25 = 10.4cm 52cm-10.4cm = 41.6cm
The foundation chain for the yoke should then measure approximately 41.5cm or 42cm.
The chest / body: You can use a custom measurement or a standard measurement from the chart. This measurement should be the widest part of the body that the top will need to cover from the chest down: this might not be the chest. It could be the hips (see the sizing chart) if you make the top long or the stomach (especially for toddlers). You need the chest/body measurement when you make the HDCFC under the arms in round 9.
Length neck – hip: This is how long you want the top to be. You measure it from the top of the yoke to the hem on the bottom. This is how you will know how many rows you need to complete for the main body. You can use the table for average lengths per age group. For toddlers or wider fit sizes remember you need to add enough length so that it can go over the child’s stomach without stretching and pulling up. The neck-hip measurements on the average sizing charts are a little on the long side so you should not need to size up for this measurement.
If in doubt about the chest / body measurements then go up 2 (or even 3) sizes for the chest/body on the standard chart sizes. The stitch on the main body holds its definition even if the top is loose. It is better to have something a little too large than something that is too tight, small and unwearable.
Deciding on Shell Count for the Shoulders
To mark the arm openings for the shells you must count how many stitches you have in the round. Then you need to decide based on your stitch count how many shells will go across the shoulder. For the smaller sizes (6 months – 3/4 years) you might only have room for 3 – 4 shells. For larger sizes you will have room for 5+ shells across each shoulder. The number of stitches you mark out for the shells must not be higher than the stitch count for the back piece / chest piece of the yoke, see the example below.
The Shell Stitch Count
1 shell = 7 stitches
2 shells = 13 stitches
3 shells = 19 stitches
4 shells = 25 stitches
5 shells = 31 stitches
6 shells = 37 stitches
7 shells = 53 stitches
8 shells = 59 stitches
Example
If your stitch count is 115 around then you will have room for 4 shells over each shoulder. This works as follows:
25 stitches (4 shells for shoulder 1) + 25 stitches (4 shells for shoulder 2) = 50 stitches.
115 stitches – 50 stitches = 65 stitches left in the round. You divide this by 2 for the stitch count for the front and back piece. As 65 is an uneven number this works out as 33 stitches for the chest piece and 32 stitches for the back piece.
As you can see from this example there are more stitches allocated to the chest (33 stitches) and back (32) pieces than for the arm openings (25 stitches each).
Marking the arm openings on the Teagan Summer Top
How to Mark the Arm Openings
Using the example stitch count from above
Place the yoke down so that the back is facing you. Mark the first and last stitches of the round with a stitch markers. I will call these the “purple” stitch markers. Starting the purple stitch markers on the left (that marks the beginning of the row) count 16 stitches to the left and place a “green” stitch marker in this stitch. Then count 16 stitches to the right of the other purple marker. You have now marked off the 32 stitches that make up the back piece.
Go to one of the green stitch markers. Beginning with the stitch after the stitch that is marked, count the 25 stitches you need for the shells / arm opening. Place a green stitch marker in the 26th stitch (you should have 25 stitches between the markers). This is one arm opening marked off. Then count 33 stitches across the chest piece (including the stitch marker you have just placed). Place a green stitch marker in the 33rd stitch. You have now marked off the front piece and second arm opening.
You can check that everything is even by lying the front of the yoke over the back of the yoke (make sure the opening on the back for the button is not gaping). Your 2 green stitch markers on the front should lay roughly beside / on the 2 green stitch markers placed on the backside of the yoke.
Measuring the Under-Arm Pieces
Example
The chest piece is 15cm. The back piece is 15cm. From the custom measurement or average chest size chart you want the chest / body piece to be 54 cm around.
15cm + 15cm = 30cm
54cm – 30cm = 24cm
24cm ÷ 2 = 12cm
You need to make a foundation chain under each arm that is 12cm long.
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The Pattern
Get the easy to follow, printable picture tutorial PDF pattern on ETSY or RAVELRY.
PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.
The ch2 at the beginning of each row / round 1 – 12 does not count as the first hdc. This means when you start the row you must make the 1st hdc in the 1st stitch & you do not hdc into the ch2 at the end of each row. When you work in the round this fills the gap between each side. Be careful not to increase your stitch count by accident by using the ch2 as a stitch.
The yoke is first worked in rows to create the button / tie opening on the back of the top. The yoke is then slip stitched together and worked in the round.
The Yoke
Foundation / Row 1: Hdcfc to required length (see the previous page), check length with measuring tape, turn. Leave a long tail when you start the hdcfc.
Row 2 – Ch2, *hdc5, inc.* Repeat what is between the ** until the end, turn.
Row 3: – Ch2, hdc in each stitch to the end. Yarn off. Make sure to tightly weave in this end before you begin the next round. Yarn off here because when the two ends are joined together (Row 6) the pattern needs to be on the flat side.
Row 4: – Yarn back on the same side where you began Row 3. Ch2, hdc1 then *sk1, puff*. Do not forget to close off each puff stitch with a ch1. Repeat what is between the ** until the end of the round. The row must end with an hdc. Depending on your stitch count:
You may not be able to skip a stitch between the last puff stitch and the hdc at the end of row. Just make the last hdc without skipping a stitch.
You may have to skip two stitches after the last puff stitch before making the last hdc in the last stitch
Row 5: Ch2, *hdc4, inc.* Repeat what is between the ** until the end, turn. Do not forget to HDC into the spaces between the puff stitches.
Row 6: Ch2, *hdc3, inc.* Repeat what is between the ** until the end. Mark the last stitch with a stitch marker (optional). Do not turn. Instead, slip stitch to join onto the other end of the yoke.
TIP: Now you are working in the round: be careful not to add stitches when working in the round. I use the ch2 in the next rounds (arm openings down to the main-body) to fill the gap normally left in the seam. It does not count as a stitch.
The Arm-Openings & Chest
RND 7: Ch2, hdc in each stitch around to the end. Sl st to close the round.
If you want the yoke to come further down the shoulder then you can add some extra rounds before round 8. If the yoke begins to lift / not sit properly because of the extra rows here then make an increase row of: *hdc2,inc* repeat ** around.
RND 8: Mark off the spaces for the arm openings (for instructions check the previous page for instructions).
Ch2, hdc around until the first stitch marker. Remove the marker and HDC in this stitch. Replace the marker. In the space between the two markers: *sc, sk2, 8tc (in one stitch), sk2* Repeat what is between the **. Sc in the last stitch beside the stitch marker. Remove the stitch marker and hdc in that stitch. Replace the stitch marker. Hdc to next stitch marker and repeat shells for the second arm opening. Then hdc in each stitch around until the end of the round. Sl st to close the round.
RND 9: Check the previous page to determine how wide the whole chest / body needs to be. Use the measuring tape to decide how long each Hdcfc under each arm will be. Both underarms must be the same length.
Ch2, hdc in each stitch around to stitch marker, *sl st into that stitch, then hdcfc to chosen length. Check the foundation chain length with the measuring tape. Then sl st onto the next marked stitch*. Hdc in each stitch around to the next stitch marker. Repeat what is between the **. Hdc in each stitch to the end of the round. Sl st to close the round.
TIP
In round 9 when you create the first stitch in the HDCFC don’t just pull up a loop in the first chain but hook around the stitch you have slip stitched to. This will anchor the HDCFC to the yoke better.
If you cannot do this then you can go back later and sew the HDCFC on more tightly with some yarn.
When you complete the HDCFC, slip stitch once to the left of the chain. Then slip stitch to the other side of the yoke. This will also better anchor the HDCFC to the yoke but it can also be tightened later on with some yarn and a needle.
The Chest
RND 10: Ch2, hdc in each stitch to the end of the round, slip stitch to close the round.
If you want to increase the length of the chest piece then continue to add rounds of hdc here.
If you have increased the number of rounds between rounds 10 & 11 then it is suggested to make the puff stiches from round 11 the whole way around and not just across the chest piece.
RND 11: Ch2, hdc in each stitch around until the front of the top. Stop 2 stitches after the arm hole. *Puff, sk1* until 4 stitches before the beginning of the next arm hole. Make last Puff stitch and then HDC in next stitch (do not leave a space then hdc). HDC until each stitch to end of round, sl st to close round.
RND 12: Ch2, hdc in each stitch around to the end of round. SL ST to close the round.
Before RND 13 count your stitches. For the stitch used on the main part of the body your round needs to be in a multiple of 10. Example: you have 115 stitches. You can either increase the stitch count in round 13 by 5 to have 120 or decrease by 5 to have 110.
115 ÷ 5 = 23. Then INC/DEC in every 23rd stitch of the round in stitches: 23, 46, 69, 92, 115
Don’t worry about increasing stitches here because the main stitch on the body tends to be a little tighter than the yoke and chest.
RND 13: Change colour, hdc3l in each stitch until the end of the round. Sl st to close the round.
The Main Body
The row numbering is reset for the main body
RND 1: In the first stitch make a FAN: [CH3, 2DC, 1CH, 3DC]. *Sk3, sc, sk1, sc,, sk3, FAN*. Repeat what is between the ** until the end of the round.
To end the round: sl st into the last stitch of the round. Then sl st around the ch3 of the first FAN of the row.
RND 2: SL ST around into to the chain space at the centre of the FAN. Ch1, sc, *ch3, in next ch1-space [hdc, ch1, hdc], ch3, sc in the ch1-space at centre of the next FAN*. Repeat what is between the ** to the end of round.
To end the round: SL ST into the first sc of the round.
RND 3: Ch1, *sc around the ch3-space, FAN in chain 1 space, sc around the ch3-space, ch1*. Repeat what is between the ** to the end of round.
To end the round: Sc around last ch3, sl st to ch1 at the beginning of the round.
RND 4: In the ch1-space [ch3, ch1, hdc], *ch3, sc into top of FAN, ch3, in chain 1 space [hdc, ch1, hdc].* Repeat what is between the ** to the end of round.
To end the round: After the last ch3, sl st into the base (underneath) of the ch3 at the beginning of the round. Then sl st around the first ch3 at the beginning of the round.
RND 5: Into ch1-space (the V from the last round) [ch3,2dc ch1, 3dc], *sc around ch3, sk1, sc around ch3, in ch-1 space FAN].* Repeat what is between the ** to the end of round.
To end the round: Sc around the last ch3 space, sl st around the first ch3 at the beginning of the round (this pulls the fan down)
For rounds 6 and onwards: repeat rounds 2 – 5 until the top is close to the desired length. Then you need to make the hem.
Tip: Mark the first stitch of every round with a stitch marker. This makes it easier to identify if you need to slip stitch into it
The Hem
You can finish the hem in two ways
Hem A (pink top), Hem B (saffron top)
Hem A: 4 rows of shells and hem in colour change
Stop 4cm before the top is the desired length. Finish on a repeat of round 2 or 4.
RNDS 1-4: At the beginning of a repeat of round 3 or 5, yarn off in the main body colour and yarn on in the yoke colour. In this colour make 4 more rounds. You should finish on a round repeat of 2 or 4.
RND 5: Make 1sc in each stitch ch1 space on the top of a fan, in each HDC and the ch1-space between each hdc. Around each ch-3 space make 3sc. End the round with sll st to the beginning of the round.
RND 6: HDC in each stitch around. Sl st to the beginning of the round.
RND 7: To finish the hem neatly, slip stitch in each stitch around. Yarn off and weave in the ends.
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Hem B: Colour change in hem only
Stop 1-2cm before the top is the desired length. Finish on a repeat of round 2 or 4.
RND 1: Make 1sc in each stitch ch1 space on the top of a fan, in each HDC and the ch1-space between each hdc. Around each ch-3 space make 3sc. End the round with sl st to the beginning of the round.
RND 2: Colour change to same colour as yoke & chest. Hdc in each stitch around. Sl st to the beginning of the round
RND 2: To finish the hem neatly, slip stitch in each stitch around. Yarn off and weave in the ends.
The Cap Sleeves
The cap sleeves are the material that comes out underneath the top of the shells over the shoulders.
Positioning the cap sleeves
Place the top on the table with the front facing you. On the arm opening to the right find row / round 6. This the round where the shells are anchored to the top. Pull back the shells and you can see the front 2 loops of the HDC of round 6 where they have been attached. The 3rd loop of the HDC are behind the front loops.
Row 1: Yarn on to the 3rd loop of the first stitch where the shells begin on the yoke. Leave a long tail for sewing later. Do not worry if you do not have it exactly at the beginning of the shells because you will go back and sew the sleeves down later. Ch1 (does not count as sc), sc in each stitch to the end of the row beneath the shells. Turn.
Rows 2 – 4: Ch2 (does not count as Hdc), hdc in each stitch to the end of the row. Yarn off and weave in tail. If you want longer sleeves then just continue adding rows here.
Finishing the cap sleeves
The cap sleeves on both will now be a number of rows of hdc that are not attached to the arm openings underneath you made in round 7. Using the long tail on either side where you joined on, sew in each sleeve on one side (x2). For the remaining two sides take some yarn of the same colour and sew them down.
To neatly finish the sleeves and arm openings yarn on at any point and slip stitch around the arm openings and the cap sleeves. Sl st in each stitch around. Yarn off and weave in loose ends.
The Button | The Bow
When the yoke was made a gap was left so that the top could be closed with a button or with a bow. It is your preference whether you close the yoke with a button or a bow. I personal like using a bow for the smaller sizes and a button for the larger sizes. This is because I err on the side of caution when it comes to small objects that small children can choke on. I also think the bow looks so sweet on a toddler while a button fastening is more grown up for an older child.
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Button
When you made the foundation chain for the yoke you should have left a long tail. Use this to yarn on to the top edge of the split. Make 1sc and draw up this stitch so that the loop is large enough for the button you have chosen to slide through. Make sure it is not too large so that the button constantly slips out. Then secure the sc loop eith a sl st and weave in the end well.
On the other side of the yoke use the sewing thread and needle to attach the button.
Finishing: To make the opening look neat (at the moment it will look quite jagged). Yarn on and sl st in each stitch around the opening. Continue around the top of the whole yoke until you are back to where you began slip stitching. Yarn off and weave in the loose end.
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Bow
Using a smaller hook, yarn on to the top of one side of the opening. Leave a long tail. Chain until the tie / bow is long enough to tie in a bow when you chain the other side. Yarn off and with a yarn needle eave in the loose end a few loops up the back of the chain. Weave in (very well) the other loose tail. Repeat this for the other side. Make sure both ties are the same length.
You can test how long you want the ties to be by making both ties at the same time. Then make a bow with both ties. Then you can add / remove chains from each side as needed before yarning off and weaving in the ends.
Finishing: To make the opening look neat (at the moment it will look quite jagged). Yarn on and sl st in each stitch around the opening. Continue around the top of the whole yoke until you are back to where you began slip stitching. Yarn off and weave in the loose end.
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