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Violet the Moonlight Crochet Ballerina

Updated: May 16, 2023



I am so delighted to share with you my pattern for Violet the Moonlight Crochet Ballerina. This pattern would be suitable for anyone new to amigurumi who wants to make an uncomplicated but beautiful project.

I was inspired to create Violet for my toddler who is just not a girly girl. Despite this she still loves dolls and dancing. So I created Violet as a ballerina for all those children who dare to be different. We decided to call her Violet the Moonlight Ballerina because Violet loves to dance at night under the stars and the moonlight.

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I created Violet the Moonlight Crochet Ballerina and wrote the pattern with beginners in mind. Making amigurumi is finicky work and so Violet can be made from the tips of her toes to the top of her head without sewing (although you do need to sew on her eyes and hair-cap). This approach makes it very easy for beginners (who have mastered the basic stitches and feel comfortable reading a pattern) that want to try their hand at such a sweet little amigurumi doll.


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Required Materials

Crochet Terms: This pattern follows American (US) terminology

Materials: Yarn, hook, scissors, pins (they are optional but very helpful or affixing the eyes, hair cap and bun), 4 stitch markers (or hair pins or piece of yarn), a yarn needle, stuffing. For the eyes you can split a length of black yarn, use black embroidery thread or use black lace cotton. If you don’t want to sew on eyes you can use safety eyes. For the stuffing you can buy polyfil or other stuffing specifically for amigurumi. You can also repurpose the stuffing from a clean, old pillow.

Yarn Weight: The sample doll uses superfine, fingering weight yarn. You can use a heavier yarn but this will make a larger doll.

Yarn Types: The sample doll has been worked up using Scheepjes Catona (100% mercerised cotton) in colours: 105 (Bridal White), 074 (Mercury), 124 (Ultramarine) and 519 (Fresia). If you are looking for a mercerised cotton yarn alternative I have listed some suggestions on a separate post here.

Yarn Quantity: Navy (Ultramarine) 30grams, pink (Fresia) 5 grams, grey (Mercury) 25 grams, white (Bridal White) 3 grams.

Hook Size & Gauge:The sample doll was worked using a 2mm hook, which was one size smaller than recommended on the label. Check the recommended hook size on the label of your yarn and go one size below the lowest recommended.

Dimensions: This doll is 30cm (11.8 inches) high.

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Stitches and Abbreviations

mc – magic circle

ch – chain

ss – slip stitch

sk – skip a stitch

fo – fasten off

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

lsc – long single crochet

flo – front loop only

blo – back loop only

inc – increase (2sc worked into the same stitch)

dec – invisible decrease (2sc worked together)

The Pattern


  • Get the Ad Free, easy to follow large print picture tutorial (and printable) PDF pattern on ETSY or RAVELRY.

  • PIN this pattern to your Pinterest boards for later HERE.

  • Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE.


The Legs

Do not forget to stuff the legs lightly as you go!

Leg One

Row 1: Magic ring 6 (pink) (6).

Row 2: Inc in each stitch around (12).

Rows 3 – 8: 1sc in each stitch around (12).

Row 9: Change colour (grey), 1sc in each stitch around (12).

Row 10 – 27: 1sc each stitch around (12).

Row 28: Change colour, 1sc in each stitch around (12).

Row 29 – 36: 1 sc in each stitch around (12).

Row 37: 1sc around and fo at the end of row (12).

Leg Two

Repeat Rows 1 – 37 of leg one.

Do not fasten off at the end of Row 37.

***

The Body

Row 1: Take leg one so you can join it to leg two. You should not have fastened off leg two when you completed row 37.

On leg two: Ch3, then sc at any point onto row 37 (the last / top row) of leg one. Sc around leg one until you reach the ch3 on the other side. Sc across the ch3. Then sc around leg two. Sc across the 3ch (29)

Rows 2 – 10: 1sc in each stitch around (29).

Row 11: 1sc in each stitch around then fasten off and weave in the tail. (29).

The body including the first row (pink of the skirt)

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The Skirt

Row 1: change colour(pink) and 1sc around each stitch flo.

Row 2: Ch3, *sk2 stitches, 1sc, sk1, [3dc, ch3, 3dc] into the next stitch*. Repeat what is between the ** until the end of the row. Then skip the last 2 stitches and slip slip stitch around the chain 3 from the beginning of the row.

Row 3: Change colour (white). Slip stitch across the next two stitches. Ch3, 1dc into the last stitch before the chain space. *Into the chain space [3dc, ch3, 3dc]. Then 1dc into the next 2 stitches. Be careful here. Check for the hidden stitch: you may need to pull back the last dc you have done in the chain space to see the first stitch you need to dc into. Sk3 stitches. 1dc into the next 2 stitches*. Repeat what is between the ** until the end of the row. Skip the last 3 stitches and slip stitch into the beginning ch3.

Row 4: Change colour (navy). Slip stitch into the next stitch. Ch3, 1dc into the next 3 stitches. *Into the chain space [3dc, ch3, 3dc]. Then 1dc into the next 4 stitches. Sk2 stitches. Then 1dc into the next 4 stitches*. Repeat what is between the ** until the end of the row. Skip the last 2 stitches and slip stitch into the beginning ch3.

Row 5: Change colour (pink). Slip stitch into the next stitch. Ch3, 1dc into the next 5 stitches. *Into the chain space [3dc, ch3, 3dc]. Then 1dc into the next 6 stitches. Sk2 stitches. Then 1dc into the next 4 stitches*. Repeat what is between the ** until the end of the row. Skip the last 2 stitches and slip stitch into the beginning ch3.

Row 6: Change colour (white). Ch3. Sc in next 8 stitches. In chain space *[1sc, ch3, slip stitch down into the top of the sc]. Sc in next 9 stitches.1 lsc down into the space of the previous row. 1sc into the next 9 stitches (check for the hidden stitch beside the long sc*. Repeat what is between the ** until the end of the row. Then 1 long sc down into the chain space of the previous row. Slip stitch to the beginning ch3 and fasten off. Weave in all loose end.

Completed Skirt


***

The Body Continued

Do not forget to stuff the body lightly as you go!

Row 12 : 1sc in each stitch around in the blo (29).

Rows 13 – 19: 1sc in each stitch around (29).


***

The Arm Holes and Shoulders

Do not forget to stuff the body lightly as you go!

Mark off the arm holes on either side of the doll with 4 stitch markers. You should have 5 stitches marked out on each side, 10 stitches across the front of the body and 9 at he back (makes a total of 29 stitches around).

Row 20: 1sc around to first stitch marker. *Ch5 and skip 5 stitches (you should have this marked). Then 1sc to re-join with the body*. 1sc to next marker. Repeat what is between the **. 1sc until the end of the round.

Row 21: 1sc around including into the ch5 for each arm hole (29).

Row 22 – 23: 1sc in each stitch around (29).

Row 24: 5sc and dec (25).

Row 25: 4sc and dec (21).

Row 26: 3sc and dec (17). Yarn off and weave in ends.

Marking out the arm holes

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The Arms

Do not forget to stuff the arms lightly as you go!

Arm type A is the no sew method. Arm type B is the sew on method. I recommend using method B if the stitches for the arms holes you have made are too tight.

Arm type A

Row 1: Yarn on in navy and single crochet around the arm opening (10).

Row 2 – 3: Sc in each stitch around (10).

Row 4 – 26: Change colour (grey), 1sc in each stitch around (10).

Row 27: 1sc and dec (7).

Row 28: Dec in each stitch around. Close the round and weave in the loose end of the tail.

Arm Type B

Row 1: Magic circle 5 (5).

Row 2: Inc in each stitch around (10).

Row 3 – 25: Sc in each stitch around (10).

Rows 26 – 28: Colour change (navy), 1sc in each stitch around (10). Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing onto the arm. You can pin the arm to the body placing the open end of the arm against the arm opening on the body. Sew around the hole and the weave in the loose end. ***

Attaching the arms (sew on method)


The Neck

The neck is created reattaching to the shoulders where you have fastened off the body. You then change the yarn colour to grey and continuing to decrease until the round is quite thin.

Finish stuffing the body before the neck opening becomes to small

Row 26: Yarn on in grey back onto row 25 of the body. Then 2sc and dec (13).

Row 27: 1sc and dec (8).

Row 28: 1sc in each stitch around (8).

***

The Head

This is a continuation of the neck from the previous section but I am resetting the row numbers to make things easier.

Row 1: Inc in every stitch around (16).

Row 2: 1sc and inc (24).

Row 3: 2sc and inc (32).

Row 4: 3sc and inc (40).

Row 5: 4sc and inc (48).

Row 6: 5sc and inc (54).

Rows 7 – 16: 1sc in each stitch around (54).

Row 17: 5sc and dec (47).

Row 18: 4sc and dec (40).

***

The Eyes

If making the eyelids using lace cotton (see the picture below), chain the desired amount and affix to head with pins (this makes it easier to sew them on). Sew on / embroider / add safety eyes at this point. If making eyes lashes you also need to sew them around and below the eyelids (make sure to fully attach the eyelids first). It helps to first stuff the head and then decide where you will place the eyelids. Then take the stuffing out to sew the eyes on. *Note: I placed the eyes quite high on Violet’s head. This made the top of her head look very small. Don’t worry because this issue with perspective is fixed when you add the hair cap and bun.*

When finished with the eyes you need to stuff the head. Make sure you get enough stuffing inside the neck opening too.


Positioning the eyes

The Head Continued

Make sure you stuff the head very well. Otherwise it will not have a good shape and will be very wobbly.

Row 19: 3sc and dec (32).

Row 20: 2sc and dec (24).

Finish stuffing the head before you finish the last 2 rows.

Row 21: 1sc and dec (16).

Row 22: Dec until the head is closed. Weave in the loose end.

The Pumps & the Hair

Ballet Pump Straps

(a) Chain in pink yarn to the desired length and sew onto one side of the shoe, then wrap around the leg in an X an sew to other side. Weave in loose end.

or

(b) Yarn on in pink at the side of the shoe. Chain to desired length. Wrap in an X around the leg. Slip stitch to the other side of the shoe. Fasten off and weave in loose end.

***

Hair Cap


TIP: At Row 7 check that the cap is large enough. If you need the haircap to be slightly wider then continue with “6sc and inc”, “7sc and inc” until it is wide enough. Then you can make regular 1sc until the cap covers the head to the nape. The cap should be tight on the head (you might have to do some manoeuvring to get it on) but once it is on it should not be squeezing / distorting the head shape. If this has happened then you needed to increase by more rows after row 7.

Row 1: Magic ring 6 (in navy)

Row 2: Inc in every stitch around (12).

Row 3: 1sc and inc (16).

Row 4: 2sc and inc (20).

Row 5: 3sc and inc (24).

Rows 6: 4sc and inc (28).

Rows 7: 5sc and inc (32).

Rows 8 – 15: 1sc in each stitch around (or until the cap is desired size) (32).

Place the cap on top of the doll’s head and slide it backwards so that it is covering the top of the head and the back of the head until the neck. You can now sew the haircap onto the dolls head. Sew slightly underneath the cap and be careful not to pull the stitches too tight.

Side view of the haircap


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Bun

Row 1: Magic ring 6 (in navy).

Row 2: Inc in every stitch around (12).

Row 3: 1sc and inc (16).

Row 4: 2sc and inc (20).

Row 5: 3sc and inc (24).

Rows 6 – 7: 1sc in each stitch around (24).

Row 8: 2sc then dec (18).

Row 9: 1sc then dec (12).

Stuff the bun very well with filling and position it on the head. You can hold it in place with some pins. Then sew the bun onto the head.

The hair cap and bun

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Bun Strap

Chain in pink until you have enough chains to wrap around the bun. You can (a) place the chain around the bun and then slip stitch to make it into a closed circle. Fasten off and leave a tail to sew into place, or (b) you can make the chain, wrap around the bun and sew it on directly. Weave in / sew in the loose ends.

***

I hope you enjoyed making your own Boho Chic Crochet Headband. I would love to see your finished pieces.. you can share them with me here:

  • Tag them on instagram with #onedutchstitch

  • Share on Facebook

  • Pin it on Pinterest


If you have any questions or feedback I am always happy to hear from you! You can find my contact details on my contact page by clicking here.

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